Bryan Lavery is the Culinary Director and Culinary Experience Provider of the Lavery Culinary Group. He is also a Food Editor and Writer at Large for Eatdrink magazine. With years of experience in the restaurant and hospitality industry, as a chef, restaurant owner and consultant, Bryan knows what sets London’s food culture apart from the rest. We caught up with Bryan to talk about what London’s restaurant scene was like in the past, what it’s strengths are now, and where it’s going next.
 

 

Amelia: Are you a London resident?

Bryan: Yes, I’ve lived here for over 30 years.

What is your impression of the London food scene?

If you care about your food and where it originates, you are going to love discovering the restaurant scene in London, Ontario. The range and choices in styles of culinary offerings reflects our cultural diversity and the increased desire for quality food experiences. Our landmark restaurants and indie cafés distinguish themselves with multi-cultural authenticity and tradition, with an emphasis on using our region’s characteristic flavours and ingredients.
 

How has the London food scene developed in the past 10 years? Any trends you see?
 

Indie food entrepreneurs and culinary artisans with their made by hand, small batched and seasonal offerings, using locally-procured ingredients continue to be a part of the broader food movement. London continues to be a hot-bed of indie food start-ups with everything from organic, keto, paleo, gluten-free, sugar free and nut-free options to the passion for plant-based products. The rise in local bakeries, cafés and restaurants serving up innovative vegetable-centred cuisine is not a trend but the new reality.
 

Our local craft beer movement continues to flourish, bringing new flavours, innovation and creating customer loyalty not only to the products they are offering to local restaurants and bars but to the brewers themselves. Our forward-thinking craft breweries are creating meaningful and lasting on-site experiences between brands and consumers evidenced by the increased popularity of tap rooms offering beer tastings, flights, games and community interaction.
 

Our food trucks serve a diverse variety of cultural foods. In fact, these mobile eateries are the new incubators for culinary innovation. We’re speaking about the chef-driven, entrepreneurial, indie food truck owners who post their location and menus on social media daily.

What are its strengths?
 

There is a strong sense of community and a well-trained workforce. London continues to be a hotbed of indie food start-ups and has a strong entrepreneurial spirit.

 

What do you think the London food scene needs to improve on?
 

That is a loaded question that is making assumptions. Historically, London has had a vibrant and cohesive food scene with a tremendous diversity of options and a strong entrepreneurial spirit. There is a lack of educated food media.

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Can you speak to the farm-to-fork philosophy many restaurants have adopted around the world? Do you think this will be sustained into the future? How have you seen this philosophy being adopted by London restaurants?
 

With the farm to table ethos having evolved from a niche idea to a mainstream food movement, the trend for buying and eating local continues to gain momentum. More than ever, I see restaurateurs and chefs partnering with local farmers, fishers and foragers developing relationships, and incorporating fresh, locally-raised meats, fresh fish and wild mushrooms into their menus. Farm-fresh produce and other hand-crafted specialty products and locally-produced ingredients are also finding their way into restaurant
kitchens and cooking repertoires.

 

When I go out to eat, I am attracted to restaurants that champion farmers, small-scale producers and food artisans, by procuring products and featuring local ingredients that are responsibly sourced and presented.
Often I come across people whose criticism of the farm to table movement and local food movements are centred on the idea that they are elitist. Being a dedicated food professional requires education and connoisseurship, which in themselves are costly to cultivate but not necessarily elitist. The same criticism extends to shopping and supporting farmers’ markets.
 

The Feast On™ certification program recognizes businesses committed to sourcing Ontario grown and made food and drink. It brings together diners, restaurants, farmers and artisanal food producers who share an interest in choosing and serving locally grown and produced foods and beverages in Ontario. It is a criteria-based designation system, designed to increase the profile and demand for local food by identifying restaurateurs and food-service operators dedicated to procuring and serving Ontario foods and
beverages and whose particular attributes qualify their commitment to local food. Feast ON™. London has several restaurants that are Feast ON certified such as Craft Farmacy, Chefs Table at Fanshawe College and Abruzzi Restaurant.
 

What is your favourite place to go in London for:
Breakfast/brunch?
 

The Little Bird, Billy’s Deli, The Del Mar and the Early Bird for Breakfast. The River Room, The Springs Church Key Bistro & Pub and Windermere Manor for brunch.
 

Lunch?

The River Room, Waldo’s on King, Unique Food Attitudes
 

Coffee?
 

The emergence of London’s small-batch coffee roasters emphasizes the passion that exists for fairly traded, environmentally responsible, and ethically sourced coffee beans. The astounding growth of the burgeoning coffeehouse/cafe niche in the intensely competitive coffee market is nothing short of remarkable. Lately there has been an unprecedented increase of upmarket cafés that are part grab-and-go café, part bakery, and part casual dine-in restaurant, some of which are licensed. The quest of coffee
drinkers for artisanal, small hand-batched roasts with diverse flavour profiles is unmatched. Locomotive Espresso, 10Eighteen, Hasbeans and Commonwealth Coffee. The Tea Lounge for Tea.

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Dinner?
 

My picks are farm to table restos. However, there are many restos like Addis Ababa (Ethiopian) and Thaifoon (Thai) that are among my favourites. Farm to table restaurants include: Craft Farmacy, David’s Bistro, Garlic’s of London, Church Key Bistro & Pub, Abruzzi, Grace Restaurant, The Budapest, Black Trumpet, The Root Cellar and Pizzeria Madre.
 

Sweets/Desserts?
 

Rhino Lounge & Bakery, Happiness Bakery, La Noisette Bakery, Boho Bakeshop and Le Petit Paris.
 

Groceries, market?
 

London can boast having two outstanding community markets, the Covent Garden Market and The Market at Western Fair on Saturdays that support local food artisans and farmers. There are other great seasonal markets as well, and of course, one of the best seasonal producer-only farmers’ markets in Ontario is at the Covent Garden Market, on Thursdays and Saturdays.
 

What are some of the most underrated food establishments in London?
 

Underrated in what way? I guess our multi-cultural and immigrant restaurants could be more high profile but I would not necessarily say they are underrated.

What are some things students should know about the London food scene?
 

Locally our craft beer movement continues to flourish, bringing new flavours, innovation and creating customer loyalty not only to the products they are offering but to the brewers themselves. Our forward-thinking craft breweries are creating meaningful and lasting on-site experiences between brands and consumers evidenced by the increased popularity of taprooms offering beer tastings, flights, games and community interaction.
 

London continues to be a hotbed of indie food start-ups. The rise in bakeries, cafés and restaurants serving up innovative plant-based is not a trend but the new reality.

 

We are proponents of Experiential Tourism was a focus on culinary and our restaurant community, the burgeoning global movement toward experiential learning, whereby people create meaning by appreciating cultural nuance through interactive authentic culinary experiences.

How do you think small, unique food businesses can compete with larger restaurant chains? (e.g., Jack Astor's, Moxie's)
 

Why do you think that indie restaurants would want to compete with the familiarity of corporate restaurant chains? It is scarcity of thinking to think that there is not room for everyone. I think they appeal to two entirely different markets. Often supporting an indie restaurant (farm to table) is seen as a political statement.

 

What do you think will be the future direction of the London food scene? (More ethnic restaurants, more consolidated ownership etc.)
 

Ethnic is no longer a word that most food writers use to describe or categorize immigrant or multi-cultural foods or restaurants. The inaccuracy of the term “ethnic” is the assumption that it does not have equal footing or cannot be considered as fine dining. Nor does it make sense. Ethnic to whom or to what? Only white European-influenced cuisines? The idea that whiteness is the absence of ethnicity and sets Caucasian-based cuisine as the norm by placing it above all multi-cultural cuisines is not only inaccurate but entirely wrong.

 

London has a large and diverse multi-cultural culinary scene and I think there will continue to be an increase in immigrant-owned and operated restaurants. These restaurants will exceed expectations. Diners will evolve to value multi-cultural food and restaurants in the same way European cuisines and cultural stereotypes are valued. I think that people will be more willing to pay fairly for authentic self-expression instead of classifying these restaurants as more economical options.

What do you think the impact of this COVID-19 pandemic will be on London’s food scene and small businesses, both in the immediate and distant future?

This is new territory as restaurateurs try to navigate and respond to the COVID-19; both corporate chains and indie restaurants have been pivoting to find unique ways and innovations to serve clients and communities. Navigating the road ahead is uncertain and depends on many variables. I have spoken with many independent restaurateurs who have quickly adopted new initiatives to support both customers and employees. Many indie restaurants are in grave danger of going under, working against narrow margins and significant loss of revenue and employees. As for the future, it is likely that the hospitality business will survive with changes to the way restaurants operate. People will always want to gather to socialize, celebrate and break bread. However, the restaurant business will continue to exist, and we are left to contemplate how new business models will evolve in order to be realistic and sustainable. And the prognosis at the moment remains that there is no visible means to the end.

 

Movements and newly burgeoning restaurateur-led initiatives have been created across the country, from selling groceries to lobbying for policy changes and financial assistance from the government.

 

Initially, Ontario restaurants were asked to close their businesses voluntarily, and then they were ordered to close under this state of emergency. Under the provincial Health Protection and Promotion Act, restaurants not complying could face fines of up to $25,000 a day. However, establishments are allowed to maintain take-out and delivery services but must adhere to strict physical distancing measures. Food delivery has learned a lesson from China, offering ‘leave food at the door’ as an option to ensure social distancing between driver and customer. Mobile payments have further gained in popularity over cash and credit cards since they avoid a high touch area of contact. The Ontario government amended a regulation that allows bars and restaurants to temporarily sell alcohol as part of a food order for take-out or delivery.

 

According to Restaurants Canada, there are more than 300,000 restaurants in Ontario and it is likely many will not reopen if the current situation continues for much longer. Unquestionably, the hospitality sector is one of the hardest hit by COVID-19, with businesses required by law to remain closed in the fight against the spread of the coronavirus. Responses from food-service operators across the country have revealed:
Four out of five restaurants have laid-off employees since March. Seven out of ten food-service operators will further cut back on staff hours or lay off more employees if conditions do not improve. Nearly one out of ten restaurants has permanently closed, and a further 18 percent will completely cease operations within a month if current conditions continue.
 

Anything else you want to add? Any places or stories you want to highlight?

There are so many stories and places that are entirely unique to London.

 

Rebel Remedy is a seasonally influenced, locally inspired, London-based food and drink company. At their Fresh Bar on Dundas Street they offer functional foods: traditionally prepared fresh meals, healthy snacks, nourishing bone broths, future-food protein sources (i.e. cricket), and vegan and ‘paleo’ desserts. Specialty direct-trade coffee is sourced from Pilot Espresso. In-house ethically-produced craft kombucha, cold-pressed juices, health elixirs, and mushroom tonics are available. Their supply chains are conscientious and transparent, and all commodity foods like tea, chocolate, and coffee originate from worker owned farms that reap the benefits.

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